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I've been to Japan more than 10 times. I first went there in 1993, and Yushi and I usually return, on average, about once a year. Most of my experiences in Japan have been in the big cities (Tokyo, Osaka, etc.), so my perspective may be a bit narrow. On the other hand, I have noticed that some things are pretty consistent throughout Japan. Most of my comments, though, are based on my experiences in the cities.
My first trip to Japan was a bit overwhelming, mostly due to the language barrier and cultural differences. The first thing I noticed was that everyone looked the same. Japan seems to be a very homogeneous society. There aren't many 'westerners' there, and everyone seems to try very hard to look and act the same as everyone else. Sort of like a nation of teenagers.
In order to enjoy your time in Japan, there are two important facts to consider. First of all, things are very expensive in Japan. Public transportation, especially, is expensive. Unfortunately, the only way to really get around in the cities is to use the subway and bus systems. You could rent a car or take a taxi, but you will spend most of your time stuck in traffic. If you've ever been to Manhattan, you'll know what I mean.
Secondly, people are very pushy. This is especially true if you are waiting in any kind of line, whether for a bus or subway train, or if you are at a fast food restaurant. If you are not intimately close to the person in front of you in line, if you show the slightest hesitation, you will find people pushing you aside and cutting in front of you. This is a very common occurance. It may seem rude for such "polite" people to be so physically rude, but you must consider the extreme population density in the cities. Add to that the fact that Japan has suffered through earthquakes, famine, wars, etc. Many people, especially the older generation, can remember a time when limited resources required them to be assertive at getting what they want. This pushy behaviour is probably the primary source of my discomfort while on extended visits to Japan.
Another interesting effect of the population density (or whatever excuse you want to apply) is the fact that most people seem to park wherever they want. In front of most "No Parking" or "No Stopping" signs in the cities, you will find a row of illegally parked cars. This is especially true of taxis, which I consider to be the piranha of the roads. They seem particularly fond of parking in front of bus stops. This causes the buses to have to double- or triple-park to pick up passengers.
"Pan-handling" doesn't seem to exist in Japan. While I used to be asked for "spare change" every day on my commute to work in Portland, I have never had that experience in Japan. It may be due to some government assistance program, or it may be that the homeless people make enough money from recycling cardboard boxes. Whatever the cause, it's certainly a refreshing change.
I'm really fascinated by a few aspects of Japanese food. One of the more unusual items is Kobe beef, which is incredibly expensive; it costs about $100 for a hundred grams - that's about $450/lb. The reason that Kobe beef is so expensive is because the cattle are pampered like you wouldn't believe. From birth, they are fed large quantities of beer and massaged regularly to keep the meat soft. I'm sure it's a luxurious life, albeit short. The only time I have visibly upset a Japanese person was also the first time I had Kobe Beef. We went to a restaurant in Nara and went to a special part of the restaurant where they have a large grill set aside for the purpose of serving Kobe beef. I'm not very fond of meat which isn't cooked thoroughly, so, when asked how I would like to have my Kobe beef served, I told the chef, "Well done." I didn't understand what the chef was saying while he was throwing things onto the grill, but I was later told that it was something like "May as well be eating shoe leather." One of the other Japanese delicacies involves an unusual preparation for lobster. When lobsters are kept in the tank at the restaurant, their claws are tied shut. They will sometimes be plucked from the tank and served on a plate - alive. I guess it doesn't get much fresher than that.
Each region of Japan seems to have a different flavor. Food in Osaka is a bit salty. In Kyoto, they are proud of the subtle flavor of their food; it's just slightly salty. Kobe is, of course, famous for their Kobe beef, otherwise the flavor is similar to Osaka. Tokyo has a sweet flavor; I think they have the best tempura. The food in Okinawa is just bizarre, even by Japanese standards; I once had pot stickers which were stuffed into chicken legs.
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